Why are currants propagated by cuttings
It is no exaggeration to say: black currant is the favorite culture of domestic gardening in our country. There is, probably, no garden area, where there would be at least a bush of this shrub.
However, in most summer cottages, there are few varieties, mostly old and low-yielding, not resistant to many harmful diseases – powdery mildew, kidney mites, spots and others. The berries, as a rule, are small, have a damp separation, crumple, crumble.
Today, new high-yielding (up to a bucket from a bush), winter-hardy, complex disease and pest resistant varieties with very large berries (larger than cherries) of excellent taste have already been created. The widespread introduction of new varieties into amateur gardens is hindered not so much by the difficulties in acquiring seedlings, but by the high prices.
You shouldn’t be upset, there is a way out. After all, the propagation of black currant by cuttings is available to everyone, and they cost several times cheaper. I want to tell you how to plant and how to propagate currants by cuttings, because the seedlings grown at home on the window are much superior to purchased ones.
Planting cuttings and caring for them
Reproduction of black currant by cuttings begins in February-March (but it is possible later). Before planting, cuttings can be stored either in the snow or in the freezer wrapped in a wet rag, paper and wrapped in plastic.
Cuttings are used lignified, annual 15-20 cm… The upper cut is made at a right angle in 0.5-1 cm above the kidney, the lower one is oblique, slightly below the kidney.
The cuts should be done correctly with a sharp knife, and not with a pruner, the blades of which crush the wood. On each cutting, only two upper buds should be left, the rest should be removed.
Cuttings are placed in glass jars 0.2-0,5 l with soft rainwater (snow water or standing tap water for 2-3 days. No more than 5 cuttings are placed in each, otherwise they will oppress each other. In the future, once a week, water is replaced with fresh water, without removing the cuttings from the jar.
Banks should preferably be placed on the windowsill on the north side of the apartment. After 2-3 weeks, roots begin to form. At this time, they give top dressing – one (!) Nitrophoska granule is thrown into a jar of water. Young roots have not yet matured and at a higher concentration can easily burn out.
As soon as the largest spine reaches 10-15 mm, cuttings can be planted in pots, bags, etc. The soil mixture is taken with a light composition. Cuttings should be planted very carefully so as not to damage the delicate roots, leaving 1-2 buds on top. The first 2-3 days are watered abundantly – so that the soil has the consistency of thick sour cream, and then the moisture is constantly brought to normal.
To drain excess water in the bottom of each container, you need to pierce several holes.
So the seedlings are grown on the window until May-June as tomato seedlings. Before planting in open ground, they must be hardened. To do this, about a week before planting, they begin to be taken out into the open air. The first days are protected from direct sunlight and watered abundantly, and with the establishment of stable weather, landing in a permanent place is possible. To make the bushes branch better, pinch the tops of the shoots.
By autumn, powerful bushes with 4-5 well-developed shoots grow. They begin bearing fruit a year earlier than ordinary seedlings. Thus, practically anyone can grow valuable planting material of currants for their site without a large investment of money and time.
Now you know how to propagate currants correctly, in conclusion I want to briefly talk about some of the new varieties.
New varieties of black currant
FIR-tree. Early ripening. The berries are large, sweet, dry separation. Simultaneous ripening, easy harvesting. The bushes are compact. High-yielding, winter-hardy, self-fertile, disease-resistant variety.
AROMATIC . Ripening is medium early. The berries are tasty, aromatic. Resistant to powdery mildew, anthracnose. The bush is medium-sized, medium-spreading. The variety is winter-hardy, fruitful.
VASSILISSA IS BEAUTIFUL . Mid-season. The berries are large, sweet and sour. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew, anthracnose. The bush is vigorous, high-yielding.
PERUN . Late ripening variety. Berries are large, up to20 mm, weighing 3-5 g, shiny, dry, with firm skin. The pulp is greenish, sweet, with a strong aroma. Disease resistant.
ILYA MUROMETS . Late maturing. The berries are tasty, large, on a long brush, do not crumble when ripe. It is completely resistant to kidney mite infestation. High-yielding, winter-hardy, fast-growing.